This is our most frequently asked question - mostly due to so much misinformation floating around on the internet right now.

There is no such thing as a miniature Highland - certainly not a microminiature one. Adult Highland cows will average 1100-1400 lbs. Bulls generally range from 1700-2000 lbs. Not miniature.

Rising popularity of Highlands has brought out people trying to market smaller animals as mini Highlands, commanding high dollars for “pets”. Most often these are stunted, poor examples of the breed. There are many reasons for an animal to be on the small side. Maybe it is a case of placental insufficiency. Maybe the dam is older and her milk production/quality is declining. Maybe the calf was sick at some point. Maybe it has something congenital going on – bad heart, for example. Maybe the breeding combination just didn’t work - not every pairing clicks. Lots of different reasons.

Maybe the breeder deliberately withheld nutrition to stunt it. Some so-called “breeders” pull healthy calves off of healthy dams and feed the calves just enough to survive. Some misrepresent the age of the animal, claiming it is older than it actually is, so it seems small. We've heard of a few cases of people buying a very young calf as a miniature, with no instruction to feed milk replacer - and the calf is dead in a week.

Maybe the animal is not a purebred Highland, rather crossed with another breed - often Dexter. Crossbreeding is fine, as long as it is not being marketed as a purebred- and the sire & dam do not carry the chondrodysplasia (dwarf) gene. Many so called miniature Highlands are the result of a Highland being crossed with a chondro Dexter. Breeding animals that carry the chondro gene increases the risk of bulldog calves (a lethal genetic defect), as well as a frame that cannot support the weight of the animal as it grows.

For any reason, other than being crossbred, it is irresponsible to pass on those genetics. Not only do you risk passing on poor qualities, you risk endangering the cow and future calves. A "mini" Highland cow will still have regular Highland size genetics - so will have a normal sized calf, greatly increasing the risk of dystocia.

We think (hope) the problem is, most of these “breeders” do not have cattle experience and are just jumping on a bandwagon. Inexperience is fine, ignorance is not. Highlands have so much to offer as a hardy beef breed, why on earth would you bastardize a grand old breed to produce substandard animals? If you want a Highland, even if just for a pet – please buy a well bred one from someone who has the breed’s best interest at heart.

There is no such thing as a purebred polled Highland - and since we raise registered cattle, that'd be a nope.

Just to clarify terminology. Polled means an animal is born without horns. Dehorned means you remove the horns - generally shortly after birth either with an electric debudding iron or dehorning paste.

It is simple science – a purebred Highland will always have horns. The horn gene is recessive, so any polled "highlands" are actually crosses. We are not aware of any legitimate registry that allows for polled animals to be registered. Certainly not in Canada, as we do not allow any breeding up.

The horns are an integral part of the breed. Highland cattle typically use their horns as protection against predators, in establishing herd hierarchy and for thermoregulation. And to get that hard to reach scratch! We’ve often observed mama cows using their horns to gently nudge a calf towards their udder.

The only time we find their horns are an issue is when working them through handling equipment. They can always get through just fine, it just takes a bit of patience. And honestly, we think their stubbornness plays a bigger role than their horns in that regard.

They are very aware of where their horns are and how to use them. The only time we have ever been hurt has been our fault. A cow lifting her head too quickly out of a bucket. Or a cow with brand new, sopping wet calf that has asked you repeatedly to back off. Or overly friendly cows jostling for attention. That's why we keep pets to a minimum. Now their back ends… you are much more likely to be kicked. They are large prey animals – you need to be aware at all times.

If the horns intimidate you – I suggest starting with weaned calves and grow up with them. Or if you really don’t want them – consider Galloways (or another polled breed) instead. They have lots of hair and finish beautifully on grass, as well. Never mind dehorned Highlands are just weird looking.We consider dehorning a last resort. For example, some countries don’t allow horned animals in abattoirs. If that is the case ALWAYS debud as young as possible (before the buds attach to the skull) and with proper pain control.

If you have an older animal and for some reason they are aggressive – a bullet is much kinder than sawing off their horns. A cow can still hurt you without horns. Any aggressive bovine belongs in the freezer.

We don't. Honestly, why would you want one? They are cute, no question. But, feeding two or three or four times a day for months on end - gets old. Awfully fast. They tend to be jerks, not respecting boundaries. Your knee caps take a beating. And bottle fed calves never grow as well as those raised by cows.

Some people think they’ll get a quieter cow in the end if they bottle raise it. Not true. Much better to buy a weaned calf - they are super easy to tame down at that age. They’ve also learned proper cattle behaviour - so will fit in with a herd. And are generally more respectful of personal space.

It is pretty rare we end up with bottle babies, anyway. In the past, they’ve usually been out of cows that had some subclinical mastitis, so had some quarters scarred over. Therefore, they couldn’t produce enough milk for their calves, if at all. In those cases, we leave the calves with their dams and just go out to the pasture to feed. That way they learn normal cattle behaviour and don’t imprint on us. Their mamas protect and clean them.

Highland cows are extremely maternal. They love their calves. They grieve for weeks if they lose one. So, if for some reason we have a bottle baby without a dam – we keep them around in case we have a cow lose her calf later in the calving season. And graft that orphan calf onto that cow. Much better for the calf and better for that cow.

Some people ask us to pull healthy calves off of healthy dams. It is not in the best interest of either animal. The calf won't do as well. The cow has an increased risk of developing mastitis. You risk teaching the cow that she does not have to look after her calves. Nevermind that cow knows darn well who took that calf, and she can get a little hunty.

If we were to end up with a bottle calf at the end of calving season… we would put the time, energy and cost into growing it up the best we could ourselves.

And just a note in regard to bottle bull calves. They should always be castrated, without question. Bottle raised bulls can be extremely dangerous and we would never risk putting one out there. It doesn't matter how well mannered you raise them to be. Bottle fed bull calves imprint on humans, thinking you are essentially a cow. When they reach sexually maturity they see you as competition for females - they are the animal that is going to maim or kill you.

This is one of those questions that has so many variables attached to it , that we really can’t give you a decent answer. Depending on those variables, the answer might be 1.5 acres or it might be 20, 40, 80 or even more.

What is your soil like? How long is your growing season? What kinds of forage do you have? Is it pasture, woods, slough - a combination? What’s your annual average rainfall? What types of animal units? What kind of pasture management (rotational grassing, mob grazing, low density, etc)? Keep in mind different species of grasses/forbs may do better with certain management styles.

Soil and species vary so much – even 10km in either direction, the land is different here. What works for us, wouldn’t necessarily work for someone else. Even our own separate pastures have different needs.

Our best advice is to talk to your local ag extension specialist. Or your local forage association. Local farmers. Even your MD/county will be able to direct you to appropriate resources for your location.

Just a note about particularly small acreages. You are likely to have periods of freeze/thaw and hooves in mud can really destroy grass. Same even if you have a bit more land and experience mud - sacrificial areas are likely needed to save your bigger pastures from being dug up. We have mainly sand here, so mud is rarely an issue.

And we feel with Highlands, especially – the smaller the acreage, the beefier the fence needs to be.

Always err on the side of caution. Better to have too few animals when starting out, than getting yourself into a bind.

In our experience we wouldn’t say they need better fencing than any other cow, but there are individuals that can certainly test your sanity - as with any breed.

Anyone who has been out to our farm knows we have miles and miles of what some would consider crap fence. Much is old three wire barbed wire. Some original. Some is sheep fence from the 1930’s - it is very much a suggestion anymore, but does the trick for most of the cattle.

We’ve been working on slowly replacing as time allows. A good four wire barbed wire fence is usually adequate. We do run a line of offset hot when bordering pastures with neighbours in the summer to deter bull mix-ups. We also run a line of hot on the fence that separates the bulls/steers and cows/heifers in the off season. The boys don’t even bother looking at cows in heat anymore – they know there’s no point and resign themselves to bachelorhood for the winter.

There can problem animals that just don't respect a particular fence – there always seems to be a few in the bunch. You have a few options: cull, beef up the fence or adapt to the animal. Some animals do better with certain fences, pastures or housed with certain individuals.

Reading over this, guess we don’t really have fantastic advice. Like we mentioned above, a tight four wire barbed wire is usually fine, especially if not bordering with other cattle. Add offset hot if you need to, or start with it. And hit them with it hard – if possible, use a plug-in energizer. If your acerage is small, you'll likely need better fence. The same if you border other cattle, (especially if open cows and bulls are involved) or if you live along a major roadway.

Note, that if cattle have been raised with just hot, they aren’t as likely to respect non-electric fencing, especially bulls. In some situations, the very best fence is still a suggestion.

Everybody has a slightly different way of setting things up – and we are still moving things around. Visit lots of other farms for ideas. Read about facility design online. But, at absolute minimum - you must have a secure pen. And a way to safely restrain an animal. Preferably before you bring them home. Here’s a quick breakdown of what has worked for us.

Everything moveable. We mainly use free-standing heavy duty panels – the ones made out of drilling pipe/stem. That way you can re-configure things easily. And it makes cleaning easier if you can just move everything out of the way. And sell them if you decide you don’t want the cows at some point.

Bud boxes over crowding tubs.

For the alley leading up to the squeeze chute – don’t make it too long. Even with our bigger numbers, we find it easier to move the Highlands up only one or two at a time. They can get sometimes get pretty witchy with one another in tight quarters.

Try to use as few vertical supports as possible, so they don't catch their horns. You’ll still need to be patient – they are stubborn beasts. And make it taller than you think. For being such a short, stocky breed the suckers can jump! From a standstill.

We added a lane that goes around our actual corrals leading up the alley – rather than trying to get uncooperative animals out of a bigger pen.

Extra side pens for sorting. They are especially helpful when working alone.

For the actual squeeze chute – one with a scissors/elevator style headgate works best. A palpation cage is really nice to have. We have an Arrowquip and it works really well, but there are plenty on brands that will do the job. There are also some pretty neat homemade squeeze plans for horned animals floating around.

We also have a narrow alley (with mostly bowed out vertical supports at adult head level) for treatments that we don't need to catch their heads for, like pour ons. The old girls can almost run down it.

You also need a separate, secure pen in case you need to isolate someone. Or keep a new pair in up close. If possible, with some wind protection. And a water source, but it is easy enough to fill a tub or just switch gates to let them drink in a pinch.

You will also need somewhere to load out of. When selling Highlands, expect every type of trailer possible. And every door configuration possible. That’s something we didn’t really plan for when first setting things up. Our loading area just happens to work fairly well by chance. It is a just a narrow alley with a mishmash of double hinged gates.

We just have the Highlands, so our personal experience is limited.

On the odd occasion ours have gotten mixed up with neighbouring cattle – they pretty much ignore each other. Lots of people keep their Highland cows with other breeds and don’t have any issues. Erring on the side of caution, we would introduce young animals (like weaned calves) to your polled animals. And make sure, especially in the winter, the feed is spread out.

And keep more than one Highland. They really do prefer each others company. They can be a little breedist. We’ve heard the odd story about the lone Highland cow who lets her built in herd status go to her head – wreaking terror. She usually ends up on the wall.

Bulls aren’t fussy. I’d even suggest they prefer Angus cows – the courtship is much less complicated. Crossing with Highlands is very common and can add some hardiness, hair and vigour to your herd. And Highland bulls are an excellent choice for first calf heifers. I don’t have any experience running Highland bulls with polled bulls. The odd time ours have gotten out or one has gotten in – there hasn’t been any kerfuffle. Re-introducing Highland bulls to each other is another story, especially if similarly matched.

Horses... we have no experience. Lots of people keep them with their horses, with no issues at all. Lots of people keep them separate. Most suggest summer when grazing is ok, not so much in the winter when resources are prized. Overall, horses tend to bully the cattle. BUT. There are plenty of horror stories of horses getting gored. So, if you want to try – we suggest introducing, again, young Highlands – and in the summer with lots of space. Have a plan B ready – so you can separate them quickly if need be. Things are always fine until they aren’t.

No. Cattle are herd animals. And prey animals. They need numbers, or at least the company of the same species to feel safe.

The constant stress of being alone puts cattle at risk for illness. And injury if trying to escape. Solitary cattle will test fences – hard. The need to be with other cattle is powerful.

They need bovine company. A goat or a horse is not adequate. You coming out a few times a day - certainly is not. We firmly believe you need to respect the innate nature of the animal to care for it properly.

Obviously, there are times you will need to isolate an animal. Quarantining a new bull or a sick animal, for example.

Speaking of bulls. They present an extra challenge. Most folds just run one – so what do you do with him during the off-season? May we suggest a steer or two? We usually keep our bulls separate from the girls from the end of August until the middle of June. We run several, so re-introduce them in a single pasture in the fall. Over the winter the steers run with them, as well. The bulls resign themselves to bachelorhood and seem to love their posses.

Cattle always do better when bought in groups of two or more. Travel is stressful enough. So is comingling. Both increase the risk of disease. So, we like our animals to arrive/go home with herd mates to help mitigate that stress. Everyone ends up happier – the animals, the buyers and us.

We have bought single animals ourselves in the past. The stress of hauling and quarantine all alone was significant – they often got sick. And they never fit in with the herd as well as those introduced as a small group. If you have bought single animals, do keep an extra close eye on them.

You should really base your decision by weight/size, rather than age. You want your heifer to be around 80% of her mature weight at calving. That can be sometimes hard to determine, but generally most Highland heifers are of a sufficient size to breed by 24 months. Very rarely are they big enough as yearlings – and you should only attempt if you absolutely know what you are doing. We always wait - stunting and/or dystocias are things we want to avoid. A healthy heifer able to raise a healthy, chunky calf is always better. Highlands almost always make up for that extra year on the backend of their production cycle, calving well into their mid-late teens.

If on the small side, you may want to even wait until she is 3 years old. On our farm, we would probably move an animal that was that slow to mature to our beef program. It doesn’t make financial sense for us to wait that extra year and keep those genetics in our fold. We want growthy animals.

Keep in mind that while Highlands are slow growing, they still mature sexually almost the exact same as any other beef breed. So, you’ll need to make plans to separate your young heifers from any bulls. If just starting out with heifer calves, I’d hold off on getting the bull until you need him. Unless something just perfect comes up and you have some way to keep them separate and have some company for the bull. Don’t keep herd animals in solitary confinement. Buying a bull and throwing him in a corral or pasture alone (quarantine aside) - is a major stressor. Grab a steer or two for company. Otherwise, you risk illness, escape and/or turning him sour.

We do not. We try and keep our biosecurity tight, so try to limit the movement of animals in and off the property as much as possible. While we realize there really is no such thing as a completely closed herd – we do our best. And ensure that our cattle are vaccinated for the diseases we are most concerned with.
 

Leasing bulls isn’t a risk we are willing to take. There are a multitude of diseases that they could bring back to our herd. BVD, IBR, Johne’s, trichomoniasis and vibrio are just a few. All would have the potential to severely impact our bottom line with reduced fertility and affect the health status of individual animals. And we really are not set up to quarantine well.
 

Similarly, we don’t board females for breeding. Same reasons. And the logistics would be difficult. They would need to be quarantined for a month ideally. That would likely mean feeding them hay in summer. The whole point of summer is less chores. Then let them out with our own cows – increasing the risk of injury. You know they are going to fight. And that kerfuffle could kick some girls out of heat – extending the breeding season or increasing the incidence of open cows. We like a tight calving season. And pregnant cows.
 

That being said, we think leasing Highland bulls could be a decent revenue stream for some breeders. If you had the right setup for quarantine and were diligent about keeping vaccinations & testing up – we think you could do well. There are lots of people with only a few cows that don’t want the hassle of keeping a bull or AI. You’d also want to research insurance and develop a rock solid contract. Again, just not worth the risk for us, personally.

That’s a tricky one. Both options have financial and time/effort considerations.

It costs money to buy, feed, house and test a bull. Especially if you are short on space. Alternatively, some semen can be pricey and the success rate is somewhat lower than that of live cover.

AI will take a lot more time, effort and coordination (if using synchronization protocols) over a short period of time. On the other hand, you don’t have to feed and water a bull all winter. Or worry about keeping him separate from young heifers.

What are your goals? If you are wanting to diversify bloodlines while growing your herd, AI is an excellent option. Do your cows need improvement in different areas? AI to different bulls makes that easier.

Are you a bit lazy like us? Then live cover it is! We do utilize AI - but still rely on walking bulls for the most part.

First and foremost, you need to know what a normal calving looks like - and when to intervene. Whenever unsure - always consult your vet. There are lots of resources on the internet – take the time to watch lots of videos. Here is an excellent one from the Beef Cattle Research Council: Calf 911 – How To Intervene With a Difficult Calving
 

Calving problems related to size are fairly rare in Highlands, but dystocias due to malpresentation still happen. Over the years we’ve experienced almost every kind – backwards, breech, legs back (both front & back), head back, upside down, uterine inertia, uterine torsion… and the odd oversized calf. Check regularly and be prepared for anything.
 

Our calving kit includes:

calf book (accurate records are important)

check list of cows to calve (we calve out on a fairly large area, so find a checklist handy to make sure we've seen every cow)

frozen colostrum from our herd & dried colostrum replacer (at least 150 IgG)

esophageal feeders (two - one for newborns, one for sick calves)

bottles (water bottles with sheep nipples for new calves, regular for older ones)

honey (rub into the roof of the mouth of a calf to stimulate sucking)

calf perk

selenium/vitamin E (injectable for unthrifty calves)

disposable scalpels (for castration) or bands & bander, if you prefer

oral meloxicam (an analgesic to be used on the advice of a vet for castration or difficult births)

antibiotics (on the advice of your vet)

electrolytes

thermometer

CCIA tags, dangle tags, tag marker, taggers

syringes & needles

calf chains

calf puller (preferably dual ratchet to prevent shoulder locking)

head snare

rope and halters

ob gloves, disinfectant & lube (not powdered)

old towels, blankets and sheets (no fabric softener and well rinsed)

calf hoods (if calving in cold weather)

calf warmer, heater, blow dryer (for chilled calves)

udder balm

buckets

calf hook

calf sled

flashlight

binoculars

MooCall (use code WILLOW10 to get your discount)
 

And perhaps most importantly, some way to restrain the cow. With hormones running high, your safety is imperative. It doesn't need to be fancy, but a good chute is perhaps the single most important piece of equipment during calving season. Again, reasons to intervene when calving Highlands aren't common, but at some point it WILL happen and you need to be prepared.

First and foremost – you need a vet. This is the most important. Find your vet before you get the cattle and establish a solid working relationship. Do not wait until you have an emergency. Also, work out whether they prefer to come to you or if it is more efficient for you to bring the animal in. If possible, we always haul ours in. We can usually get them there quicker, the vet has a familiar working environment with all necessary supplies and they are able to treat more cases without having to travel.
 

Second is a way to safely restrain an animal – ideally a good squeeze chute. At minimum a configuration of gates/solid fence that you can sandwich them up against. Scared, injured and/or sick animals are unpredictable. Safety is paramount.
 

As far as the actual kit – here’s what is currently in ours. As new situations come up, we add new things. Fortunately, most situations we are able to handle ourselves.
 

wire horn saw

blood stop

halter and extra ropes

hoof trimmers and knives

esophageal feeders (one specifically for sick calves)

fricks speculum and stomach hose

bloat treatment

magnets

pain/anti-inflammatory medication (to be used on the advice of your vet)

antibiotics (on the advice of your vet)

electrolytes

thermometer

disposable scalpels and a good utility type knife

syringes & needles

bolus gun

oral distraction device (for pain mitigation and delivering liquid medication)

clean rags

antiseptic soap

eye wash solution

udder balm

wound spray/ointment

pour on and spray fly treatment

ob and regular disposable gloves

scissors tweezers, forceps and pliers

gauze and vet wrap

duct/tuck tape

buckets

garden hose

flashlight

chainsaw, wire cutters, reciprocating saw and a car jack (for extracting stuck animals)

isolation pen

appropriate calibre of firearm (for euthanasia)

You shouldn't have to. If the need arises, we usually do ours at the abattoir – most long toes are the result of poor conformation and generally do not belong in a breeding program. Toes should wear naturally – the angle of the pastern dictates how much pressure is on that toe to help it chip/wear down. If the pastern slopes too low, the toes can grow longer than normal and impact function. A properly angled foot rarely grows long.

Some people say because Highland cattle evolved on the rocky slopes of the Scottish Highlands, we should expect to trim feet when in a dissimilar environment. Not true. We live in mostly sand and expect feet to wear down or chip off naturally at a normal rate.

Some other things might predicate longer feet, such as over feeding - especially with extra protein. Also, confining them to a small area so they aren’t travelling as much. If your ground is especially soft (or muddy), some gravel leading up to the water source might be helpful. Also make sure you are providing quality mineral for hoof health.

All that being said - feet can be improved. If your cow has otherwise quality attributes, you may want to try breeding her to a bull known to throw excellent feet. It is perfectly fine to experiment within your own herd – no animal is perfect, but the goal should always be improvement. Research shows that the heritability of feet in cattle is low to moderate, front feet slightly less so than back.

We have been lucky in that most of our herd sires have had excellent feet – and tend to stamp them on their calves.  However, in our early years we used a couple bulls that did the opposite. So pay attention. A good bull can improve your program, a not so good one can ruin it.

Feet are important to the wellbeing of your cattle – if they can’t move well, their health is impacted. Long toes change the way they move, increasing the risk of arthritis. They also act like skis in the winter, increasing the risk of slips and strains. If you have some long feet – get them trimmed, as needed. Or cull. For the animal’s welfare.

This we can’t really answer – totally depends on your location, age of your animals, whether or not you have a closed herd, your management style, etc.

Even different areas of Alberta may warrant different vaccines, such as redwater (Clostridium hemolyticum). Certainly, different provinces and countries would have different disease concerns. For example, vaccinating for brucellosis in the United States is often mandatory – here in Canada it is illegal.

Different aged cattle will have different concerns – some diseases only really affect young calves, others you will be more worried about in your breeding aged cattle.

If your herd is closed, then perhaps you might have a different vaccine program or not one at all. Keep in mind it is almost impossible to have an actual closed herd. Shared fence lines, bringing in new animals (including bulls), animals getting out, human visitors to the farm – all entail some biosecurity risk.

If you are wanting to export semen to certain countries – your vaccine program might need some adjusting.

In terms of management style – maybe you use the Sandhills calving system – so scours isn’t a concern. Whereas if you are calving in wet, cold, muddy conditions it would be and you might want to consider scours vaccination.

We believe that vaccination is a critical part of our herd health program. And are really cheap insurance. We vaccinate for clostridial diseases – there is no preventing blackleg without vaccination and it is a horrible way to go. If we are banding older bulls, they get tetanus vaccine. We also vaccinate for common respiratory diseases and BVD.

So, consult with your vet for the best vaccine program for your herd. They will take into consideration your area and the health status of your herd. They'll also advise you on timing so as not to experience maternal interference – thresholds are different for different pathogens. And be sure to boost accordingly.

Along with vaccination, is parasite control – again work with your vet. Get the right drug – at the right time – for the right concern.

This again, is a very location and herd specific answer. The only thing we supplement our cattle with is a quality loose vitamin/mineral. Work with your vet or local nutritionist to develop a custom program. It will vary according to area, class of cattle, stage of gestation, time of year and the quality of your forage.

It is simply a matter of preference.

Terminology.... You'll often see beef advertised or labeled as grassfed and/or grass finished. We consider the terms interchangeable. Obviously, all cattle eat grass. However, some producers will market their cattle as grassfed, but feed them grain the last month or so. When we say grassfed, we mean just grass/hay. With a disclaimer: We feel a few mouthfuls of oats over the lifetime of the animal as a luring tool is acceptable. That's like you eating a couple tic tacs on keto. Not going to have an real impact at all.

That being said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with grain finishing an animal. Lots of different ways to farm – and as long as the animal and the environment are being respected, all have an important and valid role to play in food production. We dislike pitting different methods against each other.

Those that are grain finishing Highlands generally do it fairly light – supplementing with a mix of peas, oats and some barely, often out on pasture. They are still still slow growing, so not much point pushing them with a ton of hot feed. And they really aren’t suited to a feedlot application with horns and hair.

We run a strictly grassfed operation. That’s where the Highlands really shine – and because that’s what we prefer to eat. We LOVE steak – we’ve eaten a lot over the years. Every kind, every way. Anymore, we much prefer one of our home-raised, home-cooked ribeyes over a grain finished one at a steakhouse. We want to taste the beef, the terrior – with texture. Simply personal preference.

Highlands have more slow-twitch muscle fibres compared to the quicker growing breeds. These fibres contain fat (rather than relying on sugar for energy) and are shorter and finer – resulting in a tender, finer-grained beef. Highlands won’t lay down the back fat, but they bring the flavour and marbling.

And being browsers, your Highland steak isn’t necessarily going to taste like ours – and that is a beautiful thing. There will be regional differences, just like with wine. How cool is that!? For example, most people equate grassfed beef with that deep yellow fat. That yellow fat is lovely, but we just don’t get it with our short, cool season fescue grasses. It takes years and years. Sometimes on an old cull cow (our favourite to eat) we’ll just start to see the beginnings of yellow fat.

Our steers finish on a section of very mixed prairie. A lot of rough and sheep fescue, some bush, lots of native forbes and some slough grasses. Some wild mint, that we would prefer they don’t eat much of – not raising lamb here, boys!

Of course, there are the added health benefits of grassfed Highland beef. Lower cholesterol, higher omega-3s fatty acids, protien and iron. Icing on the cake.

But, really there's no wrong way to finish a beef. You have to do what works best for you and your available forages. And what your customers want. Customers looking for grassfed beef are doing so for very specific reasons - it is important to be honest and upfront with your practices.

Ideally, you want to wait until they are properly finished, not solely based on age.

Both the best and the worst beef we’ve eaten we’ve produced ourselves. The worst - an unfinished 18 month old stag steer that was becoming a problem to manage. The best - a four year old cow that had calved twice, but oddly never lactated. Unless you have a market for nouveau beef, I’d strongly suggest making sure your animals are well finished before butchering. Nothing will turn your customers off faster than tough, bland steaks that lack marbling.

You want the animal round, the brisket full and fat deposited around the tailhead. Once the animal is laying down fat in those two areas, you can be reasonably sure they will be well marbled. With the extra hair on a Highland, it is helpful to either get your hands on them or evaluate them when wet.

With increased pressures on small abattoirs – you are sometimes booking up to a year in advance or more. That makes planning sometimes difficult. So most people butcher their Highlands right around the 30 month mark (on grass alone) and the results are excellent. Keep in mind that if under 30 months, you can get back the t-bones and porterhouses, which are popular. OTM (over 30 months), you will get striploins and tenderloin instead.

As with any breed, its going to take a little longer on grass alone - with variances according to the quality of forage.

Keep in mind, as long as in good condition - an older Highland is excellent eating. Don’t put that older girl all into ground - trust me. We usually hoard the cull cows for ourselves; not because we only sell the good beef… quite the opposite! We’re so happy with that beef, we switched our entire beef program up and now take all animals to at least 3 ½. We try to butcher in the fall, coming off hardened off native grass. We have the space - and find the increased quality and carcass size make it worthwhile for us. However, probably impractical for most people.

The answer depends on a lot of things: number of animals, age of the animals, condition of the cattle, cows open/pregnant/nursing, quality of feed, size of bales, how long the winter is, how cold the winter is, method of feeding.

Simple answer: we estimate ~25 lbs per adult cow per day - assuming good quality hay and the cows are non-lactating. Larger framed animals will need to consume more than smaller ones. We can usually expect to feed from November through the end of April.

Always err on the side of caution and source more than you think you’ll need. Weather is unpredictable. You may need more/less depending on your method of feeding and depending on the condition of your cattle going in to winter. Trust us, have more in the yard that you think you need. Scrambling in the spring for extra hay is stressful and usually expensive.

You also need to know the quality of feed you are providing. Consumption will increase/decrease based on the value of the feed, so unless you are confident in the quality of feed, get it tested. Easy and inexpensive to do. Pay close attention to the TDN and protein values. Consult with your vet or nutrition consultant if you need help interpreting the results.

Temperature also affects how much feed you will need. Prolonged cold temperatures mean you’ll need to feed a bit more – sometimes upwards to 30% more depending on how cold, how long, breed of cattle and the TDN% of your feed.

Most beef cattle will start consuming more feed anywhere from 0C to -8C to increase their metabolic rate to keep warm. Studies and anecdotal evidence show Highlands do not increase their feed intake until -25 to -30C (assuming they are in good condition).

We don’t usually offer extra feed unless we have an extended, deep cold snap. We try and save the very best feed for those deep freezes and for when the cows are in the late stages of gestation. Heavily pregnant cows don’t have as much rumen capacity with space restraints, so can’t consume as much.

While Highlands will usually ignore any formal shelter in the winter months, they do need a place to get out of the wind. A decent stand of trees or manmade windbreak is adequate.

Pay attention to body condition. Again, there are plenty of good resources on the internet on how to rate a cow’s Body Condition Score (BCS). It is important that if you have a cow come in thin in the fall, you get her back into condition before winter hits. She’s not going to be able to handle the cold as well as a cow in decent condition. And she’s going to need more winter feed to maintain her condition. Cows that go into winter thin almost always come out thin in the spring.

Sometimes a cow will consistently put her all into their calf over the summer and come in on the thin side every fall. I’d suggest removing such animals from your breeding program – you want efficient cattle in your herd. First calf heifers always get a pass, though. They are usually still growing themselves.

But, sometimes it’s just a one off. Maybe she’s older and just not converting feed efficiently or her teeth aren’t great. Early weaning and supplementing her with some high energy feed may be in order. If she’s especially thin, there may be something else going on and you should consult with a vet.

If you have a larger number of thin animals, you likely had a pasture issue. Either not enough or it was of poor quality.

Make sure you are monitoring/treating for parasites. No point feeding bugs - internal or external. Discuss with your vet the most appropriate course of action.

And remember that too fat is just as bad as too thin. You are going to increase the amount of fat both in the udder (reducing milk production) and the birth canal (increasing the risk of calving difficulties). We’ve certainly been guilty of having fat cows in the past – they are awfully good at convincing you they need more. But, it’s just not worth it in the long run.

So, look at your cows – they are never wrong. Do they look good? Observe their manure – do their patties look good? Lots of articles on the internet on how to evaluate manure. If you are feeding different types of hay – are they feed sorting? Especially with Highlands, your top cows are going to monopolize the better quality feed.

Highlands are well known for being hardy and efficient feed converters. Both true, but unfortunately, sometimes they fall victim to their reputation. They are still cattle and need proper nutrition – you cannot just turn them out in the back 40 and expect them to thrive.

Most grasses lose most of their nutritional value with a good, hard frost. A lush green grass may test upwards of 19% protein in the midst of growing season. That same grass can drop down to 2% after a hard frost.

You also have to consider the depth of snow and the type of snow. Cows aren’t like horses, they don’t paw down to get to grass. If the snow is too deep, they can’t get to it. If you are in an area like us where chinooks blow through and form hard crusts – they won’t be able to graze either. So you need to plan for feed throughout the winter just in case.

But, if you know your grass, it certainly is possible to supplement with winter grazing. Not all grasses are created equal. Our short northern fescues (sheep, rough) maintain most of their nutritional value throughout the winter. After a frost their sugar content goes up, providing excellent energy. While our cattle may go out and graze if warm winds clear off the hills, we don’t rely on it. We prefer to either bank that grass for spring or fall. And leave enough litter for pasture health and wildlife.

If you aren’t sure if your winter grass is suitable – have it tested, just like other forages. Regardless - be sure you are supplying a good vitamin/mineral mix at all times.

Research has shown that cattle do just fine with snow as a winter water source. With a huge BUT. The cows can’t be nursing or in poor condition. Growing animals and those in late pregnancy should also have access to water.

The snow must be of quality – clean and soft. And of adequate quantity. Conditions can change quickly, so you need to have an alternative method of watering ready to go, just in case. And keep a close eye on your cattle for changes in behavior and condition.

Note, that what works for us, may not work for you. The beauty of seeing how other people do things – is you can grab bits and pieces and fine tune your own methods.

We mainly just roll our big round bales with the tractor. Enough for one day (unless we plan on being away or super busy, then we’ll feed double or triple).

We find this works best to ensure every cow gets enough to eat. If you have Highlands you know they can be terribly bossy when it comes to food. Spreading the feed out over a bigger area allows the bottom animals to get their fill. It also helps distribute manure evenly over land than needs improvement. And what little hay waste there is, will improve the soil. We try and start to feed at the far edge of the pasture and work our way in – feeding on a clean strip each day. That helps distribute the manure evenly and you don’t have to bounce over quite as many frozen cow patties.

We don’t use feeders for a couple reasons. We have too many cows – its just not practical. Highlands tend to like to get their heads stuck in things. And we like a nice set of horns, so try to avoid anything they may get caught/bumped on, especially while growing. Not that you can’t use feeders with Highlands. Lots do – most popular is the tombstone style.

Another method is to bale graze. A great option for most cattle – and if we had “normal” cows we sure would. But, we find Highlands break up the bales too quickly, resulting in more waste than I like. We buy all our feed, and especially during drought years we just can’t afford excess waste. We did a bit of bale grazing one year, when calving in exceptionally cold temperatures. But, the late calving heifers just stood there and ate and ate – then had ginormous calves. Like 95lbs+. That wasn’t fun.

When we’re weaning, we basically just let the calves bale graze in the corrals. They waste a lot, but we don’t have to bed them. They have a pretty deep pack by the time they’re ready to be let out again. Makes excellent compost for the garden.

If you are feeding better and lower quality feeds – make sure you put out enough of both for everyone. Cattle are very good at feed sorting, and you don’t want your top cows monopolizing the quality feed. Shredding and mixing might be an idea if it becomes a problem.

And always remove all string and net wrap. Software disease is a thing.